And away with the dry! ARCO 2004   It seemed that mixed climbing had run its course, a giant leap and just as giant a fall. A new sport... maybe too new to follow its own ethics! Mixed climbing was and will always be a sport that is part of climbing where you use ice equipment, like ice axes and crampons, on rock. This progression is to connect several parts of ice without having to take off your crampons and gloves to climb over the dry part. If we go on a cliff today dressed in shorts and a t-shirt with crampons and ice axes it doesn’t mean that mixed isn’t the same as a few years ago! On the contrary, it’s great training for the winter season as well as a normal approach for those who want to try it and have fun without freezing or getting a block of ice on their head.   I took part in a meeting at Arco last Sunday. I was amazed to see how many people were there, watching and trying it out of curiosity! Who said it was over? It’s just starting! Thanks also to new equipped cliffs that are sprouting all over the region.   I’ve been doing this sport for six years and I keep saying... Ahh! It’s on its last legs! Instead at the start of every season there I am with ice axes in my hands. But why? Because every year there’s always something new! The most important new thing at the moment is the new climbubu toy that is being constantly tested and improved.   I think that in order for the sport not to die out, athletes like us should take a step back because we’ve reached the top as far as difficulty is concerned. I’ll explain myself better: its impossible that everybody in such a short time can do the most difficult routes in the world! Me included! The evolution (including my personal one) has brought us to use a spur as a hook for a heel but making this a means of progression is like putting dragonnes on ice axes to hang on to when your tired. This issue was born last year among a group of the hottest athletes of the time and in hindsight I’m even more convinced that getting rid of the spur is the best solution even if I have to confess that it was me who revolutionized the use of it.   So, what else is there to say? Start from scratch! Now I want to try and repeat all the routes without spurs! It won’t be easy but I think it will create new enthusiasm for everybody. A new challenge for a new season.   Bubu
				Game over (Innsbruck)       Bats with ice axes and crampons       Mister Big Ben (Landro, Italy)       Grotta Caterina (Trieste, Italy)       Falesia di Laghel (Arco, Italy)       Cineplex (Canada)       Ueshinen (Switzerland)       Musica e magia       La via è bella       Fly in the wind       Mission impossible
				Photos by Matteo Sandi and Sara Cirilli